Art Brushes - A Virtu Guide


Sable and equivalent synthetics absorb water, hold it in the fat belly, and then
release it through the tip. These are known as water absorbing and releasing brushes
and are used with watercolor and other fluid paints.
The soft but snappy hair works well for painting details and glazing because this brush
allows fluid to be smoothly manipulated. These brushes are made with both short and long
handles. The long handled brushes are intended for painters who work on a vertical surface
and often stand a distance away from their painting, while the shorter handles are designed
for up close work.
Hog bristle and equivalent synthetics are known as paste brushes. These brushes
hold the paint in the tips, also known as the flags or split-ends. Those who paint in
acrylic may prefer synthetic bristle because natural bristle has a tendency to soften in
water.

There are essentially two different schools of brushmaking: the French and the German.
The French recognize the importance of split ends; they leave their brushes loose and
fuzzy at the top. The German brush is more controlled and tightly interlocked, which
means the brush bristles are turned inward and carefully arranged around the natural curve
of the hairs.
The best bristle reputedly comes from the wild Manchurian hog, but does anybody chase hogs
these days, not even in Manchuria and certainly not through the streets of say Skibbereen
(for example).
Many people are confused by the terms flat and bright. A bright is essentially
a shorter version of a flat, designed for a little more control. Flats, on the other hand,
are intended to cover large areas.

Poor quality brushes lose hair, and the ferrules loosen on the handle. Primitive attempts
at interlocking result in a brush that splits somewhere down the middle. Sometimes brush
companies will trim the bristles excessively so the brush looks good on the shelf but,
without split ends, the brush will not pick up and place paste paint.
There is no college for brushmakers. The stability of a brush company is crucial to the
quality of the product. All brush manufacturers start out at the low end, and then, as
they acquire knowledge and experience, graduate to making artists quality brushes.
According to our sources, two or three factories in Japan assemble the majority of high
quality brush heads. Japanese heads are then purchased and made into brushes elsewhere.
Putting the head on a handle gives a company a right to the claim made in Clonakilty.

Here are some general recommendations:
Protective Substance: If brush's hair
is fixed by a protective substance then, before using the brush, put it into a glass of
water with a temperature less than 50 C (122 F) for 5-10 minutes. After that rinse it out
in clean water.
After-Painting Care: After painting, rinse a brush thoroughly trying to remove all the
paint left. Use an appropriate solvent for type of paint.
Keeping The Hair Shape Don't leave brush's hair in the contact with a bottom of the glass
with a solvent even for a short time. Hair might lose its shape forever. Use a glass with a
special brush's holder to prevent the hair from contact with the walls and the bottom of the
glass.

Hair of a dry brush could also lose its shape. Keep a brush horizontally or on the handle
(hair up).
If you use acrylic paints rinse a brush in the water immediately after using it. That is if
you use many brushes all the brushes except one (which is in use) should be kept in the
water. Acrylic paints dry out fast especially near a ferrule and they are difficult to
remove afterwards.
Sometimes if hair lost its shape you might somewhat recover the shape by putting a brush
into the water with the temperature 80-90 C (176-194 F) for 2-3 minutes.
The Other Recommendations
Don't press on a brush while picking up a paint, painting or rinsing the brush (especially,
if it has a soft hair).
Always rinse a brush in the water after using a solvent.
If you don't use a brush for a long time keep it in a closed box.